The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. Insert a twin needle into the sewing machine and thread the needles. AA - Use needle sizes 80 / 12 to 90 / 14. The size of a needle is calculated by its diameter, thus a 90 needle is 0.9mm in diameter. The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. Use small, narrow zigzag stitches to sew the seam. Size 33 / Tex 35 / Govt. Before you start cutting out pattern pieces, iron the fabric using a synthetic setting. Hang vertically for 24 hours to allow the fabric to stretch out to its proper length before you start hemming. For fleece and faux fur, use a 90/14 or an 80/12 needle. Using your hand, tug the spandex to find out which way it stretches (a 2-way stretch fabric will stretch horizontally, while a 4-way stretch fabric will stretch both horizontally and vertically). A finer, lightweight thread is required with these smaller needles, as the eye of the needle is smaller and cannot accommodate a heavier thread. Thread Size Government Size Textile Size Tensile Strength Needle Size Recommended Fabric Weight V-30 AA 30 4.5 lb. Too much pressure will pull the fabric as you sew it and result in puckering. How To Sew On Shoulder Pads Into Jacket (Helpful Guide), What Fabrics Can You Tie-Dye? Buy enough fabric to give you plenty of scraps to try out the various needle sizes, stitches, tensions, and so forth. Once the fabric has been washed and dried, use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut out the pieces. What Size Needle to Sew Polyester? 8-Cord - Use needle sizes 330 / 30 to 360 / 32 . B - Use needle sizes 90 / 14 to 100/ 16. I have quite a collection of sewing machine needles. Polyester / cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle. E - Use needle sizes 100 / 16 to 110 / 18. There are, however, some techniques and considerations that work across the board. There are so many types of sewing machine needles, how do you know which one to use, and when??? Satin polyester can be slippery. Keep your seams sow by keeping to a low pressure. It is important to choose correct needle for your sewing machine depending on type of fabric you sew and insert i… https://t.co/4M0ZLXJkHl pic.twitter.com/yOUsuoROQd As it’s a plastic compound, it can melt and fuse under high heats, making it the go-to material for producing non-woven fabrics like felt, as well as both woven and knit polyester fabrics. One of the key pieces of prep is to wash the fabric in cool water beforehand. As a general rule of thumb, the upper tension will usually be around a 4. Gutermann Mara 70 - Use a 90/14 needle. It is helpful to remember that a 50 weight thread should be paired with a size 80/12 needle. Tip: All thread is NOT created equal. While you’ll not be able to restore the garment to its original condition, repairing the torn edges will at least give you a garment that’s still functional. 00 - Use needle sizes 70 / 10 to 80 / 12. Hopefully, you’ve picked up enough tips and tricks to make your next poly-project a breeze. When it comes to the recommended sewing machine setting, stick to a stitch length of 0.5 millimeters (0.020 in) to 1.5 millimeters (0.059 in) for the best results. Wherever possible, cotton should be sewn with cotton thread, and manmade fibers like polyester should be sewn with polyester thread. If you are having constant thread breakage issues and you have new needles and everything else is fine, then consider the thread. You’ll also need to adjust the foot pressure. Reduce the pressure on the sewing machine. We recommend this thread for all but the heaviest pack fabrics and webbing. If you’re sewing with satin polyester, you may find yourself having a hard time keeping it from puckering. Regardless of the type of polyester fabric you’re using, read on for some useful little tips that will guarantee success. The wrong needle will ruin them with the first stitch. Use ballpoint pins (their rounded tips will keep the fabric from severing) to pin the fabric along the seam allowance. Sharps - Woven fabric. Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. ​Use a ballpoint needle in sizes 5-10 and a good quality polyester thread. The standard needle that comes with your sewing machine will do a great job sewing most fabrics; however certain types of fabric, like knits, denim, leather, and sheer fabrics. Can you Sew Cotton and Polyester Together? If it is a knit fabric, you must use a 70/10 ballpoint needle for these fabrics in order to eliminate any holes in them. While using polyester thread for hand sewing is unproblematic enough, there are a few little details to be aware of when using it for machine sewing. Cut the threads, and then trim away the excess of the new fabric underneath the tear. The joy of polyester is that it has some stretch – while this may make it very accommodating after a big lunch, it does mean you have to adopt a slightly different approach to hemming to what you may be used to. If you feel any of the advice could be of help to your fellow crafters, please feel free to share the post. For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. Perfect for sail and canvaswork, polyester thread has high strength and stretch control, stability in sunlight (UVR) and resistance to needle heat, abrasion, saltwater and mildew. Thread-Needles-Fabric: Making It All Work Together. If you’re sewing by hand, it’s recommended to use needles in sizes 5-10. This thin needle has a very sharp point and is ideal to sew many layers of fabric together. This will ensure no excess colorants or coatings interfere with the sewing. #18 or 20 6 - 10 oz. Fabrics made from 100% polyester have a number of distinct advantages: as well as being stain-resistant, they can easily be enhanced with permanent pleats and patterns. Needle Size 26 - 16 Count Aida Fabric; Needle Size 28 - 18 Count Aida Fabric EMBROIDERY NEEDLE Also known as Sharps, these needles have sharp tips that pierce the fabric as you stitch, and larger eyes for accommodating floss and embroidery thread. Fabric NeedleSize Very Lightweight 8 or 9 Lightweight 9, 10 or 11 Medium-weight 12 or 14 Heavyweight 14 or 16 Very Heavyweight 16 or 18 European American 60 8 65 9 70 10 75 11 80 12 90 14 100 16 110 18 . Buy good quality thread, every time, for sewing that is FUN! The purpose of the needle is to guide the thread through the fabric. Wash before use to remove any coloring or coating that’s on the fabric. The finer your fabric weight, the lower the needle size to use. A special polyester thread meant for jeans is to be used with the needle for sewing on jeans. Sometimes, needles are inserted where the eye of the needle is facing forwards, a… If it is a woven fabric that is still soft and stretchy, then you must use a 70/10 sharp needle. Remove the pins. Even the most experienced sewer can experience the same problem, but fortunately, there’s a few things you can do to reduce the dreaded wrinkle. Ball point needles . Size 69 / Tex 70 / Govt. Similarly, cotton thread won’t be strong enough to take on the challenge of a polyester fabric. If you’re using a poly-cotton blend, sewing should be relatively easy, although it’s recommended you stick to using a polyester thread over a cotton one. Do You Need to Wash Polyester Before Sewing? The heavier your fabric, the sturdier your needle should be. Polyester is made up of small fibers that can snag and tear easily: avoid causing any damage by eschewing worn out or used needles for a fresh one. Wind the bobbin with polyester thread and insert the bobbin. cotton, polyester, linen Gutermann Mara 50 - Use with a 100/16 needle. Select size of needle based on fabric weight. While sewing polyester with a machine is the easiest method of working with polyester, if you haven’t got one, all’s not lost – although hand sewing may be more of a challenge, it’s still possible. As you sew, be careful not to stretch the fabric. Available in sizes 8/60, 10/70, 11/75, 12/80, 14/90 and 16/100. Set your sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, which is less likely to damage the fibers of the material than a regular needle. #16 or 18 3 - 6 oz. When you begin a new project, you should always switch your needle to a brand new one. Unfortunately, they tend to be one of the least breathable fabrics out there (which is why they’re often combined with cotton to make a poly-cotton blend). The eye of the needle is sized for general sewing threads such as all-purpose polyester and 50-weight cotton.. Large needle sizes – 100/16 and 120/18 – These are for heavyweight, tough fabrics, like thick leather, heavyweight canvas, and dense upholstery fabrics. How to Stretch Acrylic Sweater Easily. This will ensure any coatings and colorings are removed before you start sewing. Don’t be tempted to use any old needle. How to Shrink an Acrylic Sweater Easily, Does Acrylic Stretch? You can make them more manageable by spraying them with starch before you start to sew (although remember to wash the garment again before wearing to remove the product build-up). For machine sewing, the needles recommended are 70/10-80/12 ballpoints, sharps, and stretch depending on the fabric structure and weight. To make the task a lighter one, the following guide should provide some inspiration. Fabric is most often damaged by a bent, blunt or burred needle. Small needles sizes – 60/8, 70/10, 75/11 – are best used with fine fabrics like organza and batists. The second one corresponds to its American size, in an arbitrary scale. Make sure you position the fabric so that it stretches around the body, rather than along its length. I just like to have on hand whatever I may need. The reason vintage polyester is more difficult than modern polyesters is because the staple fibers used to make the yarn that made the fabric was thicker than modern micro-denier polyester fibers. When choosing a thread, it’s best to use one that matches the elasticity of the fabric you’re sewing as closely as possible. Tip: Resist the urge to pull the material as you sew. It should be 1 inch bigger in both length and width than the tear. They work well with quilting pieces of cotton, lightweight upholstery, denim, silk dupioni, and other fabrics with similar weight. If you’re not sure if you’ve set the machine correctly, test out a few stitches on some scraps before starting. Using a thread that is too large for the needle can cause the thread to break. The best needles for cotton fabric are medium-sized needles like 80/12, 90/14. Polyester works best with as fine a needle as possible—a size 8 “Sharp” or “Microtex” needle is one of the best to try. Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight. That sounds scary, but it simply means there are tiny “wings” just above the eye on either side of the needle that force the fibers of the fabric apart, allowing stitches to form more easily, leading to fewer or no skipped stitches. Iron the fabric on a low setting and pin the hem in place with ballpoint pins. Thread your machine with an all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your fabric. #12 or 14 < 1.5 oz. The shank creates a neat stitch pattern on elastic, which makes it a good needle for stretchy fabrics. If the needle is too small, it causes unnecessary wear and tear on your stitching threads. If you use a 70/10 needle to sew two pieces of denim, chances are that needle will be out of service very quickly. Pair 50 wt thread with size 80/12 needle. As it cools, the thread will shrink and bunch the seams. If you’re working with 100% polyester, the most important thing to remember is to use a good quality polyester thread – a cotton thread will simply not match the stretch and durability of the fabric itself, and you’re likely to experience problems down the line. Use a hand slip-stitch to fix the lining permanently in position. Needles should be changed every 1-3 garments or immediately after accidentally hitting a pin. My favorite thread is Mettler; Gutermann and Molnyke are also very good. V-46 B 45 7.1 lb. For visible topstitching on upholstery and denim, use a heavyweight topstitching or upholstery thread. 70/10– Light weight polyester or Silk, like you would use on a light blouse. As too much pressure on the pressure foot can result in puckering, make any adjustments necessary before you start to sew. For lightweight and sheer fabrics consider using 70-weight cotton or very fine polyester thread. Pull the torn edge together and pin the piece of fabric to the garment. It All Started with an Apron Contest . Set the machine to a wide zigzag stitch and sow several lines over the tear to ensure it holds. For everyday medium weight projects you will need a Universal Needle in a size 80/12 or 90/14. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Worn-out needles have nicks and protrusions that can snag small fibers in the polyester and cause tearing and puckering. Sewing Machine Needle Charts 22.115 Page1 Formoreinformationonsewingmachineneedles,seeGuideline6.125 Needle Fabric/Use Sizes Description Ball-point Knits 70/10– For most fabrics, an all-purpose thread is good. Size 554 / Tex 600 / Govt. Needles are sized in metric and imperial. 80/12 – suitable for medium weight fabrics e.g. Is Acrylic Itchy or Soft? What tension do you need on the sewing machine, what needle size should you use, and even (and this is the big one) can you sew it at all? Preparation is key. The stretchy nature of spandex and polyester can make it a challenge to sew. This needle also has a slightly rounded ball point like the Blue Tip, but is a larger needle (size 14) with a special cobra-shaped head. What better thread to use for polyester, then, than polyester thread? If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. 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